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It's a pretty legit way to fight scars, acne, and wrinkles.

You may have seen red light therapy (RLT) treatments on the spa menu at your dermatologist's office recently. And if you haven't seen them there, you've definitely noticed celebs like Chrissy Teigen and Kate Hudson donning the almost Halloween-looking LED face masks that can deliver RLT at home. So, what is red light therapy, exactly?

“Red light therapy (RLT) involves exposing the skin to safe wavelengths of light in order to address a number of skin concerns, including signs of aging, stretch marks, scars, hyperpigmentation, and acne,” says Dr. Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at Shafer Clinic in New York City. “Low wavelength red light produces a biochemical effect in cells to make more energy, which in turn helps cells work more efficiently to rejuvenate and repair damage.”

But does red light therapy really live up to the hype—and are the at-home treatments worth it? Here's what dermatologists have to say.

Also commonly referred to as low-level laser light therapy, soft laser therapy, or cool or cold laser therapy, RLT is most commonly administered with a panel of LEDs at a dermatologist or aesthetician’s office though both at-home wands, though face masks exist as well.

According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jessie Cheung, who has offices in both Illinois and New York City, red light can penetrate up to five millimeters in the skin without causing any thermal damage, and therein lies its charm as a treatment: It can be effective without being invasive.

“This technology is so great because it is completely painless and doesn’t cause damage to the skin or downtime, like some other light therapies do,” says Dr. Engelman. “RLT induces skin regeneration, whereas other therapies stimulate tissue repair by causing controlled damage to the outermost layer of the skin. This is why RLT has huge benefits of reducing wrinkles, scars, and acne.”

Like any other treatment, red light therapy requires commitment and consistency for best results. Dr. Engelman says that in-office sessions usually take about 20 to 30 minutes. To address a specific skin concern, she recommends weekly treatments for about a month. You should start seeing benefits around then, upon which, she says, you can switch to a monthly cadence for maintenance.

Want potentially faster and even more pronounced results? Couple up on your primary colors. “Red light can be combined with other colors, such as yellow and blue, for more anti-inflammatory or anti-bacterial benefits,” says Dr. Cheung.

Or, couple RLT with your next neuromodulator injection appointment, says Dr. David Shafer, MD, FACS, a double-board certified plastic surgeon of Shafer Clinic, who often has patients come in for back-to-back treatments. Not only does it save time, the light therapy can be helpful for any swelling or bruising.

Just be sure to find a pro who is qualified and has special education on treatments (not weekend courses), says board-certified, New York City-based dermatologist and founder of Skin Medicinals, Dr. Dhaval G. Bhanusali, MD, FAAD. Ask your own dermatologist for a recommendation if they don't offer the service, or screen the education history of any provider you find yourself online.

Yup, like Kate and Chrissy, you can supplement your in-office RLT sessions with a little DIY device action at home. Dr. Engelman recommends both Dr. Dennis Gross’ LED light therapy mask and the NuFace Trinity with red light therapy attachment.

“Just keep in mind that for safety, red light therapy tools that you can use at home tend to be less strong than in-office treatments,” she says. “They’re great for maintenance and preventative anti-aging benefits, but if you’re looking for stronger results in less time, in-office treatments may be the way to go.”

As far as how often and how long to use these at-home products, Dr. Cheung recommends sticking with the instructions that come with the device as they vary. One general rule of thumb: avoid the area around your eyes.

According to Dr. Nazanin Saedi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Philadelphia and clinical associate professor at Thomas Jefferson University, the biggest benefit red light therapy can offer has to do with reducing inflammation. “Red light is effective at reducing inflammation because it triggers the formation of blood vessels and increases production of collagen and fibroblasts, all of which cause inflammation to go down,” says Dr. Engelman. Additionally, according to Dr. Cheung, RLT can boost production of antioxidants and reduce oxidative stress, which can also reduce inflammation.

Unlike some topicals, red light can penetrate deeper into the skin, where it can stop pimple formation at the source by targeting the sebaceous glands’ production of sebum, according to a 2015 study in the Indian Dermatology Online Journal. “It [also] stimulates collagen production to improve the skin’s healing abilities, making it great for treating acne,” says Dr. Engelman.

As Dr. Bhanusali points out, some studies suggest red light should be coupled with blue light for a synergistic effect, as blue light is said to target the bacteria that can cause acne and the red light may actually be more effective at treating residual redness. Bottom line: Give RLT a try if you’re unhappy with results you’ve had from other treatments alone. That way, you can see if it makes a difference for you.

While red light may not be a magic bullet for restoring hair to its original state, studies have shown that red light waves can stimulate hair follicles into production. Dr. Bhanusali says the exact mechanism at work here is unknown—this boost could be a function of RLT’s anti-inflammatory properties, the increase in blood flow it creates, or the spike in collagen production it can cause.

Dr. Bhanusali has seen success with RLT in his own practice, as he commonly uses red light laser after PRP (platelet-rich plasma) hair rejuvenation sessions to treat hair loss. “In the office, we do them weekly for hair loss as needed (and same for rejuvenation) for about four to six sessions,” he says.

Collagen is basically the skin’s fountain of youth, but sadly, levels start decreasing as you age. Combine that with the adverse effect the sun, pollution, smoking, and more can have on your collagen-making abilities, and you’ve got a recipe for sagging skin long before your golden years. That’s where red light can come in. ”By stimulating collagen and elastin production, red light therapy helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles, giving skin a more youthful appearance,” Dr. Engelman says.

“The healing benefits come from its ability to reduce inflammation,” says Dr. Saedi. Again, because red light stimulates your skin cells' mitochondria to produce ATP, or energy, that, in turn, can lead to turnover of new cells and faster tissue repair. One 2014 study suggested that scars and burns are particularly responsive to red light therapy.

You can’t turn back the clock on the sun damage... or can you? Maybe somewhat. “RLT helps heal sun damage by reducing inflammation and increasing collagen and elastin production to boost the skin’s repair processes,” says Dr. Engelman.

Though not exactly a beauty benefit, per se, some research has shown that red light therapy can potentially ease the discomfort associated with osteoarthritis and rheumatoid arthritis. How exactly? Again, it’s all about RLT’s anti-inflammatory prowess. “By increasing blood circulation and stimulating the body’s healing processes, RLT helps reduce pain from arthritis,” says Dr. Engelman.

Danielle Blundell is a New York City-based lifestyle writer and editor who has written on topics ranging from home to health for a variety of publications including Rachael Ray Every Day, Redbook, Family Circle, This Old House, Elle Decor, Esquire, Domino, and Apartment Therapy. She's a graduate of Columbia University's School of Journalism and has appeared as an on-air expert on Today, The Doctors, The Celebrity Page, and other local news programs. Website: https://danielleblundell.myportfolio.com/ 

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